Why Is Luxury So Obsessed With Scent?
Why Is Luxury So Obsessed With Scent?
Beyond Beauty
Still inspired by Art Basel Paris, thinking beyond the obvious and embracing the strange and unexpected allows us to discover what’s next. Amy Webb’s recent post about "the importance of pushing the limits of imagination," emphasizes just that. She brings to the surface that breaking with convention is essential for shaping the future, a mindset we need now more than ever. This idea resonates with Chanel's latest N°5 campaign, "See You at 5," where Luca Guadagnino captures Margot Robbie’s journey along the roads of California. The film tells the story of two lovers' missed connections, leaving us with an unknown ending. But what lies beneath this storytelling?
Much like the ambiguous ending of Guadagnino's movie, the N°5 bottle, known by its codename “Mystery,” evokes an enduring enigma in the realms of perfumery, design, and femininity. Named for its significance as the fifth scent presented to Gabrielle Chanel by perfumer Ernest Beaux, N°5 also draws on the magical qualities associated with the number five.
Recently, the fragrance celebrated its centennial anniversary, a testament to its timeless appeal. The recipe itself is a closely guarded secret that has remained unchanged, though it is said to contain more than 80 separate scents. Many of the most precious elements are grown in-house by Chanel in Grasse, France’s historical perfume capital. N°5 revolutionized the world of fragrance by breaking the convention of glorifying single-flower scents, instead offering a complex bouquet that includes innovative aldehydes, adding to its mysterious allure. From its iconic packaging to its artistic exposure at MoMA, N°5 resists the whims of fashion and the passage of time. This leads us to wonder: Can the fragrances we wear shape our emotions and deepen our connections to the moments that matter?
In a world where enchantment feels elusive, our seek for the extraordinary grows stronger. As Carlota Rodben notes in Beyond Luxury: Promise of Emotion, “In an intriguing examination of our current societal climate, a yearning for enchantment permeates our collective psyche. In an increasingly tumultuous world, individuals are turning toward the magical, the whimsical, and the extraordinary as a form of escape.” This desire for wonder resonates deeply, especially in the realm of fragrance, where scent becomes a powerful vehicle for emotional connection.
In this conversation, the film Perfect Days, directed by Wim Wenders, comes to mind. It prompts us to question our current state and the redefinition of our pleasures. The film suggests that our emotional palate may be muted by the excesses of modern life, making it difficult to notice the small, meaningful moments around us—or even to create memories that truly resonate.
Adding to that, Scott King, a multisensory branding and marketing specialist and director of Full Fathom, emphasizes in the WGSN Lives of Tomorrow podcast that “olfaction is our most emotional sense,” and that a staggering 80% of our sense of taste comes from smell. He warns that the loss of smell inhibits memory formation, which is crucial in times when we need to build lasting memories.
As we immerse ourselves in the enchanting world of fragrances, one question lingers: How can we leverage the power of scent to evoke emotions and create lasting memories in an ever-changing landscape?
In the Beyond Luxury podcast episode, "Augmented Beauty: Personalization and Inclusivity in Luxury Tech," Delphine Tour Helin, Global Beauty Tech Director at YSL Beauty, and Carlota Rodben discuss how YSL Beauty embodies the spirit of its visionary founder, Monsieur YSL, by crafting daring and culturally relevant beauty solutions. They emphasize the importance of creating unique and memorable experiences for clients, leveraging technology like neuroscience and AI to awaken emotions and help consumers explore fragrances that resonate with them.
Delphine highlights the need to listen to consumer demands, noting that 77% seek emotional benefits from fragrances. Additionally, 65% of people express interest in an app that would help them choose their perfect fragrance match. By prioritizing these needs, YSL Beauty aims to foster loyalty and long-term value through tailored experiences. Key questions arise during Delphine and Carlota's discussion: "How do we create this unique and memorable experience?" and "How is your experience different from other brands?".
Delphine introduces YSL Beauty's "manifesto of service," which promises cutting-edge beauty experiences that awaken the senses and transform tensions into feel-good emotions. “We want to encourage our clients to explore the unexplored,” she states, “and above all, we want them to feel alive.”
YSL’s “Scent-Sation” initiative exemplifies this commitment, employing neuro-connected headsets to capture emotional responses to various fragrance accords, enabling personalized recommendations that resonate deeply. This innovative approach redefines the fragrance selection process, fostering meaningful emotional connections and reinforcing the idea that scent can serve as a gateway to lasting memories.
While we are inspired by YSL Beauty, Daniel Langer’s insights in his Beyond Luxury podcast episode, "The Art of Storytelling in Luxury," emphasize that many brands remain unprepared for the future, clinging to traditional narratives that resonate less with consumers. He poses a crucial question: “What are you really selling, and what emotion do you want to evoke in your customers?” For luxury brands to stay relevant amid rapid generational shifts, they must adapt to cultural nuances and effectively communicate their value.
As highlighted in the Cosmetic Executive Women event "Trendspotting Across Generations," Beauty Matters underscore the necessity of a long-term mindset for brand legacy. Trends such as skin chemistry changes, lasting fragrances, and customization reflect the modern consumer’s desire for deeper connections. According to the Nielsen report The Face of Luxury Beauty NIQ Beauty Inner Circle, 2024, change is the only constant in the beauty industry.
In the context of change, data from Submarine.ai shows that branded content related to fragrance "Mist" has gained 80 million views, highlighting a trend driven by companies like Sol de Janeiro that are compelling traditional players to adapt. The Brazilian brand showed a 115% increase in Google Searches in the past year. This shift underscores the importance of staying relevant in a rapidly changing marketplace, where consumer engagement and emotional resonance are paramount.
Still, according to Submarine.ai, another emerging trend is fragrance "Layering," which has garnered 25 million views. This practice illustrates a routine for using perfumes and how various scents can complement each other, highlighting a more personalized approach to fragrance. In the pursuit of survival in this dynamic landscape, Submarine.ai also shows the rise of new fragrance formats such as candles, home diffusers, and travel-sized options, all catering to the evolving preferences of consumers.
To deepen their connection with consumers, brands are aiming to blend their heritage with updated storytelling, as seen in Chanel N°5's collaboration with Margot Robbie and GenZ star Jacob Elordi. LVMH similarly embraces this trend with the recent release of a J’adore film by Christian Dior featuring Rihanna, directed by Steven Klein. Rihanna is not only one of the leading female artists but also the founder of Fenty Beauty, which is owned by the LVMH Group and recently valued at $2.8 billion, championing representation and diversity for women.
These strategic choices reflect a conscious effort to engage younger audiences and create emotionally resonant narratives, fostering a sense of community around their fragrances. Aligning messaging with contemporary cultural icons and emphasizing personalized experiences enables luxury brands to navigate a shifting landscape and cultivate lasting relationships with consumers.
In her conversation with Carlota, Delphine emphasized that GenZ and Millennials account for over half of the luxury market worldwide, with 97% of GenZ visiting stores to be entertained, learn, and immerse themselves in brand universes. This aligns with insights from the TikTok Creative Center, which highlights strategies for effectively engaging this demographic. Given that GenZ primarily seeks enjoyment, capturing attention in the first two seconds is crucial; ads should be entertaining and leverage humor. Sound also plays a vital role in creating an immersive experience, as ads without it are likely to be skipped. By tapping into current trends, brands can enhance relatability, while collaborating with TikTok creators can significantly boost brand perception and purchase intent. Understanding and connecting with GenZ through engaging content is essential for success in today’s luxury market.
Heritage serves as a powerful foundation, providing a narrative steeped in authenticity and artistry. Yet, as consumer preferences shift, the need for innovation becomes increasingly important. Brands must ask themselves: How can we adapt our storied legacies to meet the desires of a new generation?
Ultimately, the challenge lies in crafting a narrative that respects the past while inviting consumers to participate in the brand's future. As the luxury landscape continues to evolve, brands that successfully integrate their heritage with innovative experiences will capture the hearts of consumers and create lasting emotional connections. In this ongoing dance between heritage and innovation, the question remains: How will brands shape their story in a way that feels both timeless and fresh?
As we stand at the intersection of history and innovation, we are reminded that the journey of fragrance is not just about the scents we wear but the emotions they evoke and the stories they tell. In a world often defined by its fast pace and sensory overload, the fragrance industry has the potential to redefine how we engage with our surroundings. What if, amid our societal issues and mental health crises, such as social isolation, the fragrance industry could invite us to shared experiences, fostering connections that heal?
Imagine a world where the sensory and experiential aspects of fragrance serve as a new dimension of care, providing comfort in an age of fragmentation. By focusing on the functionality of ingredients and offering multisensory experiences, fragrances could help alleviate sleep deprivation and encourage relaxation. In a time when our attention is constantly pulled in different directions, what if these scents could cultivate intentional focus, grounding us in the present moment?
This dance between tradition and modernity is where true enchantment resides. Just as Luca Guadagnino’s cinematic journey with Chanel N°5 invites us to reflect on the beauty of missed connections, we are invited to find magic in the everyday through our simple pleasures.
As we embark on this journey, let us celebrate the power of scent to evoke emotions, spark memories, and inspire a future that feels both timeless and vibrant. Let us not forget: every scent has a story waiting to be discovered. What will yours be?
For today's reading we suggest you to listen /or re-listen to Delphine's conversation with Carlota.
Delphine Tour Helin, Global Beauty Tech Director for YSL Beauty, discusses the future of luxury brand experiences and the innovative intersection between technology and customer engagement. She shares her journey in the luxury industry and how YSL is reshaping luxury beauty experiences.
TLDR:
Luxury brands are shifting from brand expression to self-expression, from exclusive to inclusive, and from status-driven to emotions and values-driven.
Technology plays a key role in creating unique and memorable experiences, but it should be purposeful and meaningful, augmenting the expertise of beauty advisors.
The future of luxury brand experiences lies in sustainability, personalization, and inclusivity, with a focus on ethical practices, environmentally friendly products, and catering to a wide range of skin tones and cultural backgrounds.
The balance between human expertise and technology is crucial, with technology augmenting the expertise of beauty advisors rather than replacing them.
The shift to omni-channel experiences requires a seamless integration of online and offline touch points, with a focus on creating a continuity of brand experience and personalized recommendations.
3 things on our radar this week:
Luxury Unfiltered: The 4E framework is the key to transformative sales success with luxury clients
The Debrief | How Dupe Culture is Challenging Traditional Luxury
Note, that this is an opinion piece by Carolina Soares, Lead Editor, with the guidance and endorsement of Carlota Rodben, Founder & CEO.
Carolina Soares is the Lead Editor & Insights Manager at Beyond Luxury, a Beauty & Fashion Brand Consultant, and a former Googler. A native Brazilian with a deep passion for cultural fusion and languages, she grew up speaking English and Italian. Carolina spent 11 years at Google, focusing on data analysis within the beauty, wellness, and fashion sectors. Her role allowed her to work with global teams and in France, and she also spoke at industry events and served as a media spokesperson. This experience enriched her understanding of luxury and innovation
Raised in a nature-centric culture, Carolina views health as the ultimate luxury. After leaving Google, she recognized the need for a neutral voice to bridge the gap between the beauty industry and consumers. Today, she collaborates with brands and shares her insights through platforms and podcasts, working to redefine luxury and beauty.
Carlota Rodben is an author, entrepreneur, advisor, and podcaster specializing in futures and innovation in the luxury industry.
She is the CEO and Founder of Beyond Luxury Group, Co-Founder and COO of Memora, a stealth-mode startup at the crossroads of luxury, tech, and impact, and the host of the Beyond Luxury podcast, a Top 25 podcast worldwide in its category. She is also the author of two industry best-selling books, Beyond Luxury: The Promise of Emotion and Beauty As It Is.
Carlota began her career at CHANEL, where she created and led the Open Innovation Team in Europe. She later transitioned to the Global Open Innovation Team at the brand's headquarters in London, where she managed New Concepts.
Known for advancing the conversation about the future of luxury through the lenses of technology, and sustainability, and experience. Carlota’s books ‘Beauty As It Is’ and ‘Beyond Luxury: The Promise of Emotion,’ along with the Beyond Luxury podcast, are essential guides for navigating the luxury industry today.
She also serves as an advisor and consultant for institutions and multinationals, including Henkel, Beiersdorf, Muraaba, and Lufthansa Group, helping them build more desirable futures through Beyond Luxury Group.
The Beyond Luxury Substack in a proud partner of Submarine.ai, from David Klingbeil.
